August 27, 2019
August 26, 2019 – I didn’t feel the need to dedicate a blog post to yesterday, but I do want to recount my activities in brief for memory’s sake. I revisited the swimming spot in Manarola for a few hours in the morning. Then I read in a hammock on the patio of Costello in the early afternoon before going to dinner at the Middle Eastern restaurant that I ate at previously with Allie & Lainey.
August 27, 2019 – Today is my last day in Cinque Terre. There’s only one place left that I haven’t visited on my list – Le Grazie. My checkout time at Costello is at noon, so I head out early. I stop by the cigarette shop around the corner to buy my bus tickets to and from Le Grazie before heading to the bus stop. Along this street, there are covered booths set up with clothing and produce for sale. I wish I had more time to look around, but I want to have enough time in Le Grazie, so I regretfully walk past without perusing.
Le Grazie is about halfway to Portovenere, so the bus ride is about 15 minutes long. I’m not too sure where the stop is, so I am on high alert to avoid missing it. When I think we are there, I pull on the cord to request a stop. I get off the bus only to realize that I pulled the cord one stop too soon. Luckily, I am able to find my way down into town, so it’s not a big deal. I take a staircase down from the bus stop through a neighborhood until I pop out next to the harbor. Le Grazie is actually a tiny town, so it doesn’t take much time to walk around.
I take my time walking along the boardwalk and admiring the incredible wooden sailboats that David (captain of the sailing excursion) talked about. They are some of the most beautiful sailboats that I have ever seen, and I am in complete awe.
At the end of the boardwalk is the entrance to a naval base, which is located on the peninsula. Before the naval base, there is a little side path that takes you up to the monastery. Unfortunately it opens at 2 pm, so I do not get to tour inside.
It’s almost 11 am now, so I head to the bus stop and go back to Costello to pack my bags and remove the sheets from my bed. At noon, I check out and say goodbye to Alessia and Andrea, who have been the best hosts, before I walk to the train station. I have a long travel day ahead of me: a 2-hour train ride to Parma, where I transfer trains, and another hour and 45-minute train ride to Milano Centrale Railway Station.
Once I arrive in Milan, I take the underground for 11 stops to S. Ambrogio, which is across from Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio (a church consecrated in 387 AD!!!). For some reason, the GPS on my phone stops working at this point so that neither Google Maps nor Apple Maps is working. I am stuck trying to find my way to Ostello Bello on my own. Despite my frustration and panic, I eventually find it and the walk is absolutely beautiful.
Ostello Bello is a 50-bed, 5 story high hostel tucked away in an ancient neighborhood next to Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore and located on the narrow cobblestone street, Via Medici. On the way to the hostel, I pass by a historical sight where you can see an exposed section of the ancient Roman walls that are now buried beneath the city. It’s amazing to be able to see structures that have survived centuries of war and weather.
I release a huge sigh of relief when I finally find Ostello Bello. The lobby on the ground floor contains a bar, dining room, and reception desk. I check in with the front desk and am shown to my room and given a tour of the property. There is a kitchen with free food and a balcony upstairs, and my room has 6 beds, a bathroom, and an outdoor porch. I am told that a free dinner is served nightly from 7 pm – 8:30 pm, and free breakfast is available in the morning.
Once I’ve been given the tour and have all of the info that I need, I settle in to my room by unpacking my things and storing them in the locker beneath the beds. Somehow I always get lucky with a top bunk, so I climb up and put the sheets on my bed. Now I have a little bit of time to rest before I head down for dinner at 7 pm.
At 7 I head down to the lobby on the first floor, where it is now packed with people eating, drinking, and making new friends. I get in line and fill my plate with pesto pasta, bread, and salad before searching for a seat. I ask to join at the only table left with an open seat, and I introduce myself to my table mates: Poppy, Remy, and two others whose names I have forgotten (sorry!). They are all friends from Australia who are traveling together during their break from university. We mostly talk about our college experiences and our travels. I learn that most Australian students live at home with their parents and attend the university that is nearby, which surprises me! We talk for a few hours. I am exhausted so I turn down their invitation to go to a concert in a park somewhere. It’s off to bed for me!
Madi's World 