A Hike in Cinque Terre: Corniglia to Vernazza

August 24, 2019

I wake up from my deep and comfortable sleep on the top bunk of the four-person shared dorm at Costello. I remove the eye mask and ear plugs that have proved to be the essential assets to a good night’s sleep. After the adventure of climbing down the ladder of my bunk, I prepare for the real adventure: my first trip to Cinque Terre. I put my bathing suit on underneath my flowy cotton shorts and cool tank top and strap on my hiking sandals. I pack my essentials for the day: Little Women, a beach towel, sunglasses, a hat, and sunscreen. I am ready to head out. 

I pop out on the street and am immediately immersed into the hustle and bustle of the Italian nonnas taking their grandchildren to the daily street markets. I head to the trendy coffee shop around the corner called Copenhagen Cafe for my daily dose of cappuccino and a freshly baked Nutella croissant. My tummy is satisfied and I have the boost of energy that I need to start my day. I head to the train station to buy a Cinque Terre Card, which costs €16 and grants you access to all of the hiking trails along with unlimited rides on the train between La Spezia and the five villages that make up the Cinque Terre.

The train arrives and quickly fills up with tourists like myself. I recognize several different accents around me, but I can’t understand the languages. I watch the facial expressions and hand movements of the passengers nearest me and try to guess what they are saying. Moms seem to be telling their squirming children to hold still while putting sunscreen on their excited faces. 

The train comes to a stop. We’ve arrived at Corniglia. Here is where I will start my hike to Vernazza. I start the steep trek up to the village, which is the only one of the five that is elevated on the mountain with no beach access. I climb what feels like 10 flights of stairs to the top, where I stop to catch my breath and find myself standing in front of a road.

I walk to the heart of the village, where there is a narrow stone path that leads to shops and bakeries. Opposite this path is a staircase leading up to La Chiesa di San Pietro. I take a moment to admire the beautiful design of this small chapel before continuing on. 

La Chiesa di San Pietro

I find the path to the hiking trail, which leads me on a narrow stone path past vineyards and eventually to the edge of the cliffs leading down to the ocean.

The path is relatively flat and continues with irresistible views of the ocean and coastline. At certain spots I can make out the other villages hugging the coastline in the distance. Along the way, I pass families, couples and other solo travelers and we exchange a friendly “bonjourno”.

Looking Back at Corniglia

About halfway to Vernazza, I come across a rooster blocking my path. I herd it slowly forward, enjoying the company, until we come to a crossroads. The rooster takes the higher path, clearing my way to continue on at my own pace.

Soon I pass by a few isolated houses hanging on the edge of the cliff and I wonder how on earth the tenants manage to hike down to their homes each day, with no road in sight. 

See the colorful cliffside houses?

One hour later, I can see Vernazza down below. I have a beautiful panoramic view of the village overlooking crystal-clear aquamarine waters.

Thousands of stairs later*, I reach the village, which is overcrowded with tourists licking their rapidly melting gelatos. They’re on the same page as me, so I get in line at the first gelato shop I see. I leave, happy with my peach and lemon gelato, and search for a place to sit. I find a spot that overlooks the town and the 14th century church, Chiesa di Santa Margherita di Antiochia.

*Tip: I highly recommend hiking Corniglia to Vernazza like I did, rather than the other way around. I would not want to walk up this many stairs!! Walking down was a breeze.

After I finish my gelato, I head to the beach. There’s an archway in the cliffs below the houses that leads to a little stone beach, Vernazza Beach. I find a spot to set up my towel and read. It gets hot laying in the sun, so I go for a swim to cool off.

Spot the cave tunnel that is the entrance to this beach in the background.

Once I dry off, I catch the next train to Monterosso, where I find a long stretch of sandy beaches lined with cafes and shops. I walk to the very end and set up my towel.

Before long I hear thunder in the distance, and I start to see flashes of lightning coming from the dark clouds over the mountains. As soon as the first raindrop hits my sun-kissed skin, I make my break for the train station. By the time I find shelter, it is pouring rain and the train is 45 minutes delayed. I am relieved when the train finally arrives and I make it back to Costello to shower and get ready for dinner.

It’s around 4 pm, so I cook the rest of my pasta as a snack and eat alone because no one has come back to the hostel, despite the rainy weather. After I’ve eaten, the rain has stopped so I grab my umbrella and head out to just walk around La Spezia. I love European architecture, so I admire the buildings as I pass.

Along a main street, there is an art installation that reminds me of the Chromatic Gate in Santa Barbara. Walking in one direction, the square arches of the art installation are colored, alternating between yellow and blue. On the back side of each archway is mirror.

From here I turn towards the harbor and walk along the boardwalk, enjoying the boats and the beautiful, Palm Tree lined path. I kill time wandering around until 7:30 pm, when the restaurants open for dinner (so late, right?!).

At 7:30 pm, I find my way to Resilience Cafe, the same place Allie, Shruti, Lainey, and I had drinks a few nights ago. They have delicious vegetarian sliders that perfectly satisfy my appetite.

Once I’m back at Costello, everyone is hanging out. I join Shruti and two of her roommates, and we exchange stories of today’s adventures. Once we’ve caught up, I turn in early and go to bed. Good night!

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