August 23, 2019
My friend Shruti, who I met at Bassetto Guesthouse & Apartments in Certaldo, arrived last night, and she is also staying at Costello. We were out late last night with Allie, so we sleep in a bit. Once we’re both awake and ready for an adventure, we decide to go to Portovenere. Andrea, one of the co-owners at Costello, suggested a restaurant up in the mountains that we will hike to for lunch.
First we need to buy our bus tickets, so we find the cigarette shop around the corner from Costello where bus tickets are sold and buy our tickets. Then we pop into one of the cafes and order cappuccinos and croissants to-go before heading to the bus stop. We just miss our bus, but we run and are able to catch it at the next stop just down the block.
The bus is overcrowded, so we have to stand in the aisle for the 30-minute ride to Portovenere. The road is winding, so hold on tight and look forward if you get motion sick! It is a beautiful drive, and I make note of where the Le Grazie stop is for later in the week. There are several small villages along this route, but I never get to visit them.
We finally arrive in Portovenere, the beautifully colorful seaside village that I viewed from the sailboat yesterday. We find the trail that will lead us up to the restaurant. When you enter the town from the bus stop, you will see the castle wall and a narrow stone staircase leading straight up along the side of the wall.
It is quite a trek, but the view from the top of these stairs is incredible. You get a perfect view of Castello Doria, an ancient stone castle built around the 12th century that sits above Portovenere.
The trail continues up the mountain from here. The hike takes about 45 minutes, but we stop several times to look back and take in the incredible views. From the higher altitude, Palmaria Island becomes visible and you get a 180 degree view of the peninsula.
Eventually we come to a crossroads, where we follow the signs to the right. Not too much further and we find the restaurant, Rifugio Muzzerone, a rustic stone building with a large stone patio. There are also sleeping cabins available on the property.
We are greeted by the staff, an elderly Italian man who asks us what we would like to eat. Shruti can speak some Italian, so she orders for us. We pick the table closest to the edge of the patio with an incredible view.
Lunch is served! Shruti has a seafood pasta dish and I have pasta al pesto.
Pretty soon, we are joined by an unexpected guest.
Apparently wild hogs roam these mountains, so we hope that we don’t run into any on our way back down the hiking trail.
Once we’ve finished lunch and are ready to head back to Portovenere, we hit the trail. It seems steeper on the way back, and we find it a little more challenging to head downhill.
When we make it back to town, we grab gelato and then head towards Chiesa di San Pietro, the church that is on the point. On the way there, a seagull drops down out of nowhere and snatches Shruti’s cone right out of her hand – how rude!
After we explore the church, we find a cove that is popular for swimming. Just before the church, their is a doorway through the wall that leads to Grotta di Lord Byron, which overlooks the Gulf of Poets.
On the other side of this wall, we are struck with the most majestic view of the coastline. Shruti finds a comfortable place to set up her towel and then she goes for a swim. I stupidly did not pack a swimsuit for today, so I can’t join her.
Once I’ve taken in the incredible view, I decide to explore the town. Earlier I spotted another church that I want to check out, so I climb up the hill back towards Castello Doria. There is a great viewing spot to see Grotta di Lord Byron and Chiesa di San Pietro on the way.
Once I get to the church that I am looking for, I have a wonderful view over Portovenere. There are so many picturesque vantage points! The church is called Chiesa di San Lorenzo. It is closed so I can’t go inside, but I climb the steps to the left of the church to get an even better view.
I wander along this path until I find myself walking past houses. I love the variety of colors and styles as I continue through the maze. Nobody is around, so I get to quietly take in my surroundings.
I love the abundance of greenery that grows up the stone walls, giving them life. Potted plants also line the walkways, and colorful strung lanterns and flags hang above doorways. It feels like a celebration, and I wonder if these are normal fixtures or if they are decorations from a recent holiday.
Eventually the maze takes me back into town and past shops. Next I want to explore the harbor, so I follow the street along the waterfront. Once I’ve distanced myself from town, I have a nice view of the colorful houses lining the coast.
Now I feel satisfied that I’ve seen all of Portovenere (I don’t like to feel that I’ve missed out on anything when visiting a new place), so I go back to Grotta di Lord Byron to hang out with Shruti. She read her book and took a nap while I was exploring. We enjoy the view for a little while longer before we head back to the bus stop and return to Costello.
Madi's World 
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