August 21, 2019
I sleep in until 9 am, which I have rarely done on this trip. I climb down from the top bunk and quietly pack my bags, as my only remaining roommate, a sweet Russian girl who speaks broken English, is still sleeping (the other two left early this morning). Once I’m packed, dressed, and ready to go, I make my way downstairs to the lobby to check out. Then I walk to the bus stop and catch the bus that takes me back to the Pisa train station.
I meet Allie (one of the friends that I made at Fattoria Bassetto Guesthouse & Apartments in Certaldo) on Platform 5 to catch our 11:05 am train to La Spezia. The train is packed with people and suitcases. An elderly Italian women is looking for a seat. She approaches the mother and daughter across from us who are taking up two extra seats with their luggage. She is trying to ask them to move, but the mother and daughter don’t speak Italian and pretend not to understand. The elderly women yells in Italian making big motions with her hands and the mother yells back in English that there is nowhere to move their luggage. Finally the embarrassed daughter gives up her seat for the elderly women.
After watching this spectacle, Allie and I both read for the remainder of the journey. I have just started reading Little Women by Louisa May Alcott, in anticipation of the film that will be premiering at Christmas.
When the train finally arrives in La Spezia, we slowly make our way onto the platform where we are herded out of the train station by the throngs of passengers that have just disembarked from the same train. We make our way towards town until it is time to go our separate ways. I am staying at Costello, a hostel somewhere to the right, and Allie is staying at a hostel closer to the harbor. Where our paths split, there is a large fountain in the middle of the roundabout that will be our meetup spot later.
Using Google Maps, I make my way to Costello. It’s not very far away – two blocks to the right of the fountain and one block to the left. I pass by a beautiful church on the way, Chiesa di Nostra Signora Della Neve.
I walk back and forth past the entrance a few times before I finally see the sign for Costello. There is a massive wooden door tucked indiscreetly between two shops, like the entrance to a secret passageway. I key in the passcode and enter into a small lobby. I take the stairs up to the second floor. The door to Costello is on the right. I key in another passcode and am granted entry into the bright and cheerful lobby of Costello, where I am welcomed by Andrea.
Andrea and his sister, Alessia, opened the hostel a few months before my arrival. It is my favorite hostel from my entire trip because the atmosphere and facilities are top notch. Andrea and Alessia are amazing hosts, who are so friendly and excited to have conversations and share their knowledge of Cinque Terre. The hostel is beautifully designed with 4 dorm rooms with a total of 24 beds, a kitchen, a bathroom with multiple toilet & shower stalls, and an outdoor patio complete with tables and chairs, hammocks, and a seating area. And of course, plenty of greenery.
Andrea checks me into my room and gives me a tour of the facilities. After I make my bed and get settled in, I take an hour nap before meeting up with Allie.
I meet her back at the fountain at 1:45 pm, and then we head off in search of gelato. We end up finding a little gelato shop near Costello, where we order two cones. Then we wander through town towards the harbor. We pass through an outdoor farmers’ market and we take inventory in case we need anything later: fruit stands, fresh produce, seafood, and clothes.
We find a clothing store so that Allie can buy a few pairs of shorts – it’s very hot here! We browse in a few shops, scope out restaurants, and stroll along the harbor.
After walking around and seeing a good portion of the town, we decide to trek up to Castello di San Giorgio. We find a narrow stone pathway that takes us on a steep incline up to the castle. On the way, we find a little bar called Il Poggio Orto-Bar. We decide to stop for drinks and focaccia since we aren’t in a rush, and I’m starving. We take our time and enjoy our little snack before finishing the short hike to the castle.
Once at the castle, we pay a small fee to access the rooftop. There are gorgeous 360 degree views of La Spezia and the bay, definitely worth a visit. You can also pay to go inside the castle and explore the museum, but we opt out.
After the night I had in the hostel in Pisa (one of my roommates came in late, turned on the lights, and then left for two hours and I was too tired to climb down from the top bunk to turn the lights out), I decide that I need an eye mask and earplugs just in case I have another rude roommate. We find a Flying Tiger Copenhagen (these stores are everywhere throughout Europe and have some useful travel accessories), and I buy an adorable pineapple-print eye mask and a pair of earplugs.
It is starting to get late, so we find a grocery store and stock up before heading back to our respective hostels for the night. I buy pasta, pasta sauce, a zucchini, San Pellegrino sodas, and some granola bars.
When I get back to Costello, I put my groceries away in the refrigerator and pantry after labeling each item with my name using the stickers and pens provided. Then I prepare dinner in the kitchen, alongside a group from Australia that are also cooking dinner. After I’ve dished up my pasta and cleaned the pan, I take my meal out to the patio and join a group who are deep in conversation. One of them is my roommate, a friendly girl from Australia who is taking a few months to travel after finishing uni.
Once I’ve finished eating, I head back into the kitchen to do dishes. Then I take a shower and change into my PJs before settling into a hammock with Little Women. Even though the sun has set, it is still warm enough to wear shorts. I am in heaven. When it finally gets too chilly, I head into my dorm and climb up to the top bunk where I get cozy with eye mask on and ear plugs in, and I quickly fall into a comfortable slumber.
Madi's World 